A plan. Mais oui! A quick bath, which Polly (our water-obsessed cat) tried to share with me, several layers of woollens, some jolie accessiores and a toss of dirty clothes in the wash , and I was off on my jaunty French day. I passed several chirpy bay dwellers on my way au cafe, one jogging, to whom I wished a "happy Bastille day"and a big lady bundled up in home-knits like me with whom I shared a knowing smile (our jumpers were clearly knit by hand). The cafe was out of croissants. As I'd only recently discovered their pies - fresh from the Fat Goose kitchen and boasting exceptional flakey light pastry, I was rather over-anticipating my morning tea croissant.
Nevertheless, the latte soothed all, and knitting and sipping in sunshiney bliss, I was taken back to my youth and the Bradshaw family Sunday croissant tradition. It was actually pure bribery. We all disliked our new church, stilted and foreign after our warm and vibrant Pentecostal upbringing. But divorce had brought us to this new weird suburb and this 'weird church', and we weren't going to like it thank you. But my stepfather as he is wont to do, saw the big picture, and offered us rewards of icecreams from the Greek deli, and later, almond croissants from the St Ives pattisserie. They were extraordinary croissants, baked by a German chef who now owns an award winning pie shop not more than 20 minutes away from this little bay. Big, oversized, lush, mushy, warm, fragrant, almondy, custardy texture-of-heaven croissants. This was my first thought along French lines as I sat drinking my latte in the sun. I was warmed by the thought of my generous stepfather who gave us treats and traditions, made sure we were well educated and went to church.
The wind whipped up from the bay and my knitty fingers slowed down in the cold. I shifted camp with coffee, yarn, knitting magazines et al, and planted myself directly beneath the ceiling heater. Girt by two interesting families: one polite and intensely quiet, one spilling over with chaos, noise and a cantankerous two year old; and a group of self-conscious Lebanese boys in the corner discussing decorating schemes and Fantastic Furniture; I resumed my knitting and French thoughts.
Le table. My 'Fat Goose' laminated table is bare, save for some cutlery and a paper napkin. My mother's table settings were an explosion of saturated colour and pattern, fearlessly, GENEROUSLY provencale. Blowsy frowsy roses in lush pink on red, little yellow pineapples, dots, swirly paisleys (originally from India, that other land of fearless colour, and based I'm sure on some tropical fruit), plenty of wicked butter and red wine. The curtains were the same trademark French red, with little sunflower yellow paisleys. The source of these fabrics, Les Olivades, have pulled back on the busyness of the prints now to appease more modern tastes, though you can still buy the traditional fabrics. The Double Bay shop is like a jewel casket, well worth a visit just for the colour experience, let alone the quilts and French vignettes. The dye is so fast, my colours have lasted forever, faded only by the sun. My sisters and I have a virtual dowry full, though nothing could be further from my ex-husband's tastes. His mother excelled at austere, in a Syrie Maughm 30s kind of way, with a camellia in a deco glass vase, say, Chesterfield sofas, all tailoring and precision. But Les Ol still represents a girlier home; Babette is reminded of her Aunts and Granny when I bring out the placemats or tablecloths. Abundance. Love. I think of our feasting at a huge outdoor table by the pool, with boyfriends to visit, dripping grape vine overhead.
Three thoughts on France: almond croissants on Sunday, Provencale fabrics and feasts, and Paris, I city I will never regret. Merci Papa, Maman et Babette.
Paris. My thoughts fly to this bathed-in-gray, elegant city, where even the Citroens and Peugots are gray. The gray, symmetrical facade is punctuated in memoir however by une petites blob in pink. My baby Babette in a padded pink snowsuit and frilly cap with a VERY CROSS LOOK ON HER FACE which might as well have said "I hate Paris". She came with a urinary tract infection, and left with her first tooth, and was grumpy the whole two weeks in between. There was the 36 hour plane trip with bassinets set ridiculously close to the ceiling, such that one had to tippy toe on an armrest to reach one's child, tricky in (frequent) turbulence. Then the annoyed Parisian sighs when one blocked someone's film viewing whilst fetching baby from the ceiling. Baby Bette protested all the way to Paris, partly because I was too idealistic to give her Phenergan for the trip, having interviewed at least 3 doctors on the matter. I did note, rather neutrally at the time, some seasoned travellers downing Phenergan before the plane left the runway. My sister and I refused to sit next to each other on the way back. Poor Sarah. She nearly died when I forgot to pop my breast back after a feed, and then did the tippytoe thing to get the screaming Babette down, AGAIN. Parisians have an odd aversion to breastfeeding (given their au fait attitude with nudity and unprudishness in movies).
Ahhh, the snowsuit. I have photos and visions of a pink Michelin girl pouting by the Seine, pouting in the Marais, at cafes, pouting in the Loire valley walking beneath a tunnel of trees, in the Picasso Museum, at the Louvre. A very pretty, dark, fine-featured baby, with intelligent dark eyes: "*gasp* A little jjjjjewel!" cries an elegant gallery guard and holds out her arms pour bebe as I trot around the stunning "Leger" room in the Picasso Museum, at a steady pace, pram piled before me with camel coat, Sophie the Giraffe and other baby accoutrements. Babette is momentarily diverted by the unveiled admiration.
A beautiful surprise in France: people may not like breasts, but they adore babies. In addition to the petite gallery woman, I had a dear sweet waiter who fell in love with Babette. He was endlessly charming and attentive to our cranky little charge, and made us both feel particularly cared for during our stay in the Loire. This was true of most of the waiters in Paris: they showed a softness and interest in our infant, the likes of which one does not observe in Australian men (a horrific generalisation; when Babette was a baby, my husbands' best friends were adoring and interested).
Back to the photos: I am always in black, a surprising choice given that I was often vomited upon. I had a thick 60s camel hair coat, loaned to me for the occasion by my mother-in-law, who still wondered how I could go to Paris, when I could be putting the money towards good new saucepans. She had a point. I did have a "book tea" instead of a kitchen tea, and even now have only two good, REALLY good pots, actually given to me by a cafe-owning friend of mine, but that is another story. I still had a long way to go on the practicality front.
Saucepans or Paris? "Non, je ne regrette rien", as Edith Piaf chirped.
Three thoughts on France: almond croissants on Sunday, Provencale fabrics and feasts, and Paris, I city I will never regret. Merci Papa, Maman et Babette.